Advanced Eye Makeup Techniques for Every Eye Shape

The eyes are often considered the focal point of any makeup look, but creating eye makeup that truly enhances requires an understanding of eye shapes and tailored techniques. Professional visagistes know that what works beautifully on one eye shape may be unflattering on another. In this post, we'll explore advanced techniques for various eye shapes.

Almond Eyes: Enhancing Natural Balance

Those blessed with almond-shaped eyes have a naturally balanced proportion that works with virtually any eyeshadow technique. To enhance this shape, focus on creating dimension rather than reshaping.

Try the "halo eye" technique: apply a deeper shade in the inner and outer corners, leaving the center of the lid lighter. This creates a spotlight effect that makes the eyes appear even more open and luminous. Finish with winged liner that follows the natural upward tilt of the outer corner.

Hooded Eyes: Creating Visible Dimension

With hooded eyes, the mobile lid is partially or completely hidden when the eyes are open. The key is to create dimension that remains visible despite the hood.

Place your transition shade above the crease, where it will be visible with open eyes. Keep the darkest shadow close to the lash line, and avoid taking it too far up. For eyeliner, consider "batwing liner"—a technique where the line is thicker in the center of the lid and thinner at the inner and outer corners, creating the illusion of an open, rounded eye.

Monolid Eyes: Playing with Gradients

Monolid eyes have no visible crease, offering a smooth canvas perfect for gradient effects and graphic liner.

Create dimension by applying darker shadow at the lash line, gradually blending to a lighter shade as you move upward. For an everyday look, soft gradient liner—where the line is thickest at the outer corner and gradually thins toward the inner corner—can define the eyes without overwhelming them.

Downturned Eyes: Strategic Lifting

Downturned eyes have an outer corner that tilts slightly downward. The goal is to create a lifting effect that balances this natural shape.

Keep darker shadows on the outer third of the eye, blending upward and outward at a 45-degree angle from the lower lash line. Avoid applying dark shadow or liner on the lower lash line past the midpoint of the eye, as this can emphasize the downward tilt.

Round Eyes: Creating Elongation

Round eyes are characterized by visible white all around the iris. To create an elongated effect, focus on extending the eye shape outward.

Use darker shadows in an outer-V formation, extending beyond the natural eye line. Eyeliner should be thicker on the outer half of the eye and extend outward rather than upward for a sophisticated elongated effect.

Universal Techniques for All Eye Shapes

Regardless of eye shape, certain techniques can enhance everyone's eyes:

Tight-lining (applying liner to the upper waterline) creates the appearance of fuller lashes and defines the eyes without taking up precious lid space.

Curling lashes before mascara opens the eyes and creates a more awake appearance.

Strategic highlighting at the inner corner and under the brow bone draws light to the eyes and creates the illusion of a more lifted appearance.